Problem: “I can’t remove my part from the build platform.”Sometimes, a part can be stuck to the print surface really well and you’re unable to get good leverage to pop it off. When printing a pyramid shape, it’s even difficult to get at it with conventional tools. Here are a few tips: Bring the temperature of the heat bed up (or down) to about 60C for ABS.Wrap the jaws of a pair pliers with a rag and try to get some leverage somewhere on your part.Wrap the end of a chisel with some tape and carefully work at a corner of your part. The tape just protects your Kapton or other printing surface from getting scratched.
Some tips from Dave, who recently assembled one blind from the instructions: Additional tools needed. Screwdriver with removable heads, for Allen key heads (2mm and 2.5mm needed i believe) Also ‘helping hands’ for the soldering. Chapter 1: Fit the nuts: Do this. But whilst you have lots of plastic parts out, go through the ENTIRE model and find all the plastic parts. Then read all the manuals, and if there is a part that requires a smooth rod or other part to be passed through it, or any sliding interaction with another plastic piece, get a smooth rod and a file/sand paper and make sure that it goes through smoothly. This will save A LOT of time later on. Preparation of motors. Flattening the motor spindles is not really necessary. Preparation of the motor’s cables: Does not need to be done straight away. Would recommend doing this right at the end during wiring. Chapter 5 - Fixing with flanges. I found the zip ties not to be necessary and the slot that the rod went in was secure enough and did not allow any movement. Chapter 6. Section 4- Routing extruder cables…… Don’t thread the extruder motors cables first, do the hot end cable first, then the motor cable. Towards the end, they get quite tricky, use a small flat blade screwdriver to assist in pushing them through one by one. Chapter 8- Routing and connecting the cables. This is when i did my cable lengths. The guide lengths are good, but lead to a lot of excess on some extensions. If i was to make a second printer for myself, i would measure the length needed to go the neatest way into the motherboard using string, then i could cut the cables to the perfect length with no excess. But this would be purely a personal preference. As you are soldering the connectors on to each motor, scratch into the connector which on it is (eg X, XL, XR, Y) If you haven't seen it, video of build tips here: http://youtube.com/watch?v=nvTeJvRi8Bo
The latest Prusa's do not require soldering, however it is useful to have a soldering iron to fit the nuts into the plastic parts. Be careful not to overheat and put too much pressure on the nuts, otherwise they will go too deep and get stuck. - A needle file is needed to ream the holes - It will be faster if you have an allan key, socket handle-based tool, preferably with a ratchet drive - It will save time if you start by reaming out all holes to the correct size. You could use a drill, but beware of using a power drill in case you ream them out too large. - Lay all the parts out before beginning each section - Open the fittings carefully and lay them out in a manor that all the labels are visible - LCD panel support. Thread the nut onto the centre bolt to stop it skewing - Put the rod in boiling water to help ease it in the plastic part - There should be some extra bolts and screws, but it might be worth having a few spares in case some types are not present - Put cable on motor before fitting to plate - 2 axes - cut plastic parts to help ease rod insertion - Use protective gloves when handling the glass bed to prevent finger marks - Make sure the belt does not touch the edges of the pulley - Garden wire can help to pull the cables through the cable tidy - When feeding cables through the tidy, connect them to the board so you know you will get the connections right
This post from Richrap is highly recommended by one of our customers who found it invaluable in his build: Slic3r is Nicer - Part 1 - Settings and Extruder Calibration I have been using Slic3r for a few months now, it's coming along well and deserves lots more coverage, so here are a few notes and a very short guide to using it and what the settings mean - nothing difficult as it's already very easy to use and understand. In this Part 1 we will look at getting Slic3r running, calibrate the extruder and take a look at the Print settings. Part 2 will setup the printer, filament and print speeds along with doing some printing. Part 3 will experiment with low layer heights, hollow printing and any other features or limitations discovered. http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
If you find a nozzle gets blocked, it might help to try the following: 1. Use the nozzle needles supplied when the machine is preheated pushing the needle carefully through the nozzle 2. Unplug and Remove the cooling fan the one on the l/h side to inspect for stray filament 3. Check the end of the filament make sure the edge is clean and it may help to shape to a point to help insert
Download cura profiles which will set speeds and temperatures https://static-bqreaders.s3.amazonaws.com/file/Prusa/Perfil_Extrusion_Cura.zip Download cura which includes all drivers for arduino https://software.ultimaker.com/current/Cura_15.01.exe A guide to setting up and bed leveling http://www-cdn.bq.com/file/Prusa/Print_settings.pdf A great build guide from the reprap comunity here: http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Hephestos Tips for using Sli3r: http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html Problems configuring freaduino: https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/526
1. Use the attached cura profile for ninja flex most important thing is to turn off retract 2. Preheat the extruder and depress the button on top of the extruder and insert clean ninja flex slowly do not use the load option if you struggle use the jog option at 0.1mm to turn the extruder gear slowly 3. If ninja flex is stuck turn the printer off take the 2 bottom screws of the l/h fan and remove with the heatsink to untangle